FOR THE GRILL OF IT

ANGEL CITY GRILL (7505 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (213) 655-0955). Beautifully laid out in pink, black and gray, there are glass bricks, silver sconces, twinkling candles and more. Sink your teeth into grilled sea bass, succulent and gently cooked, set on a dark Cabernet ginger butter and served with authentic mashed potatoes. The music is upbeat and the desserts are worth sticking around for. Open for dinner nightly as well as lunch on weekends. Beer and wine. Valet parking. AE, MC, V. Dinner for two, food only, $15-$55.

COLUMBIA BAR AND GRILL (1448 N. Gower St., Hollywood, (213) 461-8800). This restaurant’s menu features high-quality dishes that were around 30 years ago and will be around 30 years from now. Simple dishes include shrimp cocktail, salad and a veal chop with homemade mustard. A more intricate entree would entail a cheese-and-shrimp stuffed pepper in avocado salsa followed by grilled free-range chicken. Open Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. for lunch, dinner 5:30-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. till midnight. Full bar. Valet parking. All major credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, food only, $40-$50.

DODSWORTH BAR AND GRILL (2 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, (818) 578-1344). It’s nice, conventional and comfortable. The pork tostada is exceptional: slices of roast pork laid against a sizable bed of romaine and red cabbage. A good wine list is another plus. Mon.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri-Sat. till 11 p.m. Bar remains open later. Live jazz Thursday through Saturday nights from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. All major credit cards accepted. Valet parking nearby. Dinner for two, food only, around $25.

DOWNTOWN GRILL (16925 Ventura Blvd., Encino, (818) 986-6660). It looks like a sophisticated New York grill, and the key dishes at this Hamburger Hamlet chain eatery--hamburgers, pasta and pizza--have been honed over the years at the older Hamlet restaurants. Open Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. for lunch. Sun. and Mon. dinner from 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Tue.-Thur. from 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. till midnight. Sunday brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m. All major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Reservations suggested. Dinner for two, food only, $20-$30.

THE GRILL (9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, (213) 276-0615). A real old-fashioned grill, serving no-nonsense drinks and hefty portions of beautifully grilled, high quality fish and meat. The shrimp Louis is great, as is the Caesar salad. And don’t miss the tapioca pie. Open Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-midnight. Closed Sundays. Full bar. All major credit cards accepted. Valet parking at night. Dinner for two, food only, $50-$60.

METROPOLITAN GRILL (18201 Von Karman Ave., Irvine, (714) 474-3060). A reproduction of the Palm in West Hollywood, which got its look from the original Palm in New York. The prime rib is indeed prime; caveman portions that are also available in Cajun style. Large lobster, sweet and fresh. Order the veal or chicken and experience the lively tomato sauce it’s served with. Open for lunch Mon.-Fri, for dinner daily. Full bar. AE, MC, V. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$40.