With Oysters, You Can Skimp on Accessories

The largely unpolluted waters of the Pacific Northwest are vital in growing oysters that are prized around the country for their flavor.

Oysters are filter feeders and go through about 100 gallons of water a day. The waters in which they grow determine their taste.

Pacific Northwest seafood guru Jon Rowley says, “You can tell it’s oyster time when the skies turn oyster gray, which is generally around the first of November.”

You want to eat oysters during the oyster months when the waters are cold, usually December through March.

Oysters range in size from the tiny Olympias to the extra-large Pacifics that sometimes seem as big as tennis shoes. The largest ones are definitely not recommended for raw slurping; smaller oysters, like my favorite, the kumomoto, are preferred, although seasoned oyster slurpers don’t mind an occasional big one.

Oyster purists say there is never a better way to eat raw oysters than unadorned and accompanied by only a crisp white wine, a loaf of bread and, maybe, a squirt of lemon. For others, a little something more may be needed, for example, mignonette sauce, the classical preparation of red wine vinegar, black pepper and shallots, or my interpretation of a ‘90s mignonette, an Asian-influenced Pacific Rim oyster splash, full of tiny diced cucumbers, red peppers and shallots.

What most oyster purists really turn up their noses at is the more traditional, and sometimes maligned, bottled cocktail sauce. My recipe for fresh cocktail salsa, however, should please many palates, because it’s bright, crunchy and refreshing. And it doesn’t mask the oyster’s flavor.

Fresh oysters simmered in cream, topped with a pat of butter and a sprinkle of parsley, are traditional oyster stew fare. But this lighter recipe was inspired by salon owner and oyster lover Paul Morey, whose uncle, Getch, made this family favorite from the fresh oysters picked on the Moreys’ oyster-loaded Quilcene beach backyard in Washington.

Morey entered his Uncle Getch’s Oyster Stew recipe in the Shelton Oysterfest seafood cook-off last year (winning first place in soups and stews), and it got my creative juices flowing. Calypso oyster stew is full of colorful fresh vegetables and red potatoes, making a meal in itself.

CALYPSO OYSTER STEW

Still rich but lighter than a traditional oyster stew made with whipping cream, this stew has lots of goodies. Button mushrooms or chanterelles are good choices in this recipe.

1 (16-ounce) jar or 1 pint freshly shucked extra-small oysters with their liquor

Clam juice or chicken stock

2 strips raw bacon, minced

1/2 cup diced white onion

1 cup thinly sliced mushrooms

1/2 cup thinly sliced celery

1/2 cup small-diced carrot

1/2 cup diced red bell pepper

1/4 cup dry or medium-dry Sherry

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1 cup cooked large-diced or quartered, peeled red boiling potatoes

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 1/4 cups half and half

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Chopped parsley

Lemon wedges

Drain oysters, reserving liquor, and set aside. Measure oyster liquor and add clam juice to make 3/4 cup. Reserve.

Saute bacon in large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until partly cooked, about 3 minutes. Add onion, mushrooms, celery, carrot and red bell pepper. Reduce heat to medium and cook about 5 minutes, stirring often. Add Sherry and thyme, then reserved oyster liquor mixture, hot pepper sauce and potatoes. Bring to boil.

Mix cornstarch into half and half and whisk mixture into gently boiling stew. Immediately add oysters and heat, stirring, just until they get plump and their edges are ruffled. Season with salt and black pepper.

Spoon stew into serving bowls. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with lemon wedges.

Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about:

326 calories; 756 mg sodium; 93 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; 0.58 gram fiber.

BAKED OYSTERS WITH SAVORY MUSHROOM-HERB CRUST

Use a hearty-textured Italian- or French-style bread bread to provide the desired crumb consistency. Avoid soft, airy loaves. Time the baking carefully; oysters can overcook and dry out quickly.

2 cups packed, firm-textured bread cubes

1 cup coarsely chopped mushrooms (about 3 ounces)

3 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (1 ounce)

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 dozen medium (3 1/2-inch-long) oysters in shells

Process bread cubes, mushrooms, butter, salt, hot pepper sauce, parsley, thyme, cheese, basil, lemon juice and pepper in food processor until well chopped and pea-like in texture, about 30 seconds. Set aside.

Shuck oysters, cutting muscle but leaving oyster in deep shell. Cover entire surface of each oyster loosely with 1 rounded tablespoon bread crumb mixture. Arrange oysters on baking sheet.

Bake at 475 degrees on middle rack until topping is golden, 6 to 8 minutes.

Makes 2 dozen oysters.

Each oyster contains about:

70 calories; 133 mg sodium; 30 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.05 gram fiber.

FRESH COCKTAIL SALSA FOR OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL

2 cups diced tomatoes

2 tablespoons minced celery

2 tablespoons minced shallot

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 tablespoon prepared hot horseradish

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce (or more to taste)

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/8 teaspoon celery seeds

Gently mix tomatoes, celery, shallot, parsley, lemon juice, horseradish, Worcestershire, hot pepper sauce, black pepper, salt, sugar and celery seeds. Cover and chill well before serving.

Makes 2 cups.

Each tablespoon contains about:

4 calories; 59 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

PACIFIC RIM OYSTER SPLASH

3/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons minced shallot

1 teaspoon minced ginger root, optional

1 cup rice vinegar (not seasoned)

2 tablespoons sake

5 tablespoons honey

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon minced parsley

1/4 cup finely diced, peeled, seeded English cucumber

3 tablespoons finely diced celery

3 tablespoons finely diced, seeded red bell pepper

2 tablespoons very thinly sliced green onions or chives

1 teaspoon black sesame seeds, optional

Bring black pepper, red pepper flakes, shallot, ginger, vinegar, sake, honey and salt to boil in small noncorrosive saucepan over high heat, then immediately remove pan from heat. Let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled. (Mixture can be made up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated.)

About 30 minutes before serving, add parsley, cucumber, celery, bell pepper, green onions and sesame seeds. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Serve very cold spooned over just-shucked oysters.

Makes about 1 1/2 generous cups.

Each tablespoon contains about:

16 calories; 75 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 0 fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.04 gram fiber.

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Know the Source of Your Oysters Although any oysters can be used for these recipes, it should be noted that some Louisiana oysters from the Gulf of Mexico have been declared unsafe for now by the Food and Drug Administration.

Oysters affected by the ban were harvested after Dec. 22 from these areas: Black Bay, Lake Machias, Lake Fortuna, California Bay, Bay Crabe, Bay Gardene, American Bay and Bay Lafourche.

Although fresh oysters from these areas are probably no longer available, they may show up in canned or frozen form. Ask your retailer whether oysters are from one of the affected areas.

No problems have been found with Pacific Northwest oysters.