Better Beignets

Along with Acme oysters and muffalettas at the Central Grocery, chicory coffee and warm beignets at the outdoor Cafe du Monde are required eating for first-time visitors to New Orleans’ French Quarter.

Unfortunately, the beignets, puffy powdered sugar-dusted doughnuts that turn into lead weights unless eaten almost immediately, barely survive a trip back to the hotel, much less a flight home. A mix for the beignets is sold at the coffee stand and by mail order, but in a side-by-side test with the following recipe, our tasters much preferred those made from scratch.

It’s important to maintain the oil at the proper temperature so the beignets cook through without the exteriors becoming overly browned. A thermostatically controlled deep-fat fryer is a plus, but the oil may be heated in a saucepan as long as a frying thermometer is used to gauge the temperature.

Fry only two or three beignets at a time. Overcrowding the pan causes the oil temperature to drop, and the doughnuts will absorb too much fat.

BEIGNETS

This recipe was adapted from “American Cooking: Creole & Acadian” (Time-Life Books Inc., 1971).

2 tablespoons lukewarm water (110 to 115 degrees)

1 1/8 teaspoons dry yeast (1/2 package)

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 tablespoon shortening

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup boiling water

1/4 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons lightly beaten egg

2 to 2 1/4 cups flour plus extra for dusting

Oil

Powdered sugar

Pour lukewarm water into small bowl and sprinkle yeast over surface. Allow to stand 2 to 3 minutes, then mix well. Set in warm, draft-free place about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine granulated sugar, shortening and salt in large bowl. Add boiling water and stir with wooden spoon until ingredients are thoroughly blended and mixture has cooled to lukewarm.

Stir in whipping cream, yeast mixture and egg. Stir in 1 cup flour. When thoroughly incorporated, work in up to 1 1/4 cups additional flour, 1/4 cup at time, to make dough that is smooth and not sticky. When dough becomes too stiff to stir easily with spoon, work in flour with fingers.

Pour oil for frying into deep fryer or large heavy saucepan to depth of 2 to 3 inches. Heat to 370 degrees.

Meanwhile, gather dough into ball. Place on lightly floured surface and pat into rectangle about 1 inch thick.

Dust dough with flour, then roll out from center to within 1 inch of far edge. Lift dough and turn at right angles, then roll again from center as before.

Repeat procedure until dough is about 1/8-inch thick, 13 1/2 inches long and 11 1/4 inches wide. If dough sticks, lift with wide metal spatula and sprinkle flour underneath.

Cut dough into 30 (2 1/4-inch) squares with knife or pizza wheel. Lower 2 to 3 squares at time into hot oil. Turn over with skimmer or slotted spoon as soon as squares float to surface.

Continue frying, turning often, 1 to 2 minutes, or until crisp and golden brown on all sides. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels.

Sprinkle lightly with powdered sugar and serve while still warm.

30 beignets. Each beignet:

46 calories; 21 mg sodium; 5 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.02 gram fiber,