Greens Are Red Hot

If awards were given for the most promising ingredients in 1996, greens would be the winner, with grains, perhaps, as runner-up.

The array of greens in supermarkets today is a testimonial to our changing tastes and the influence of new nutritional guidelines. When I was growing up, spinach was the lone leafy green in our little Glendale market. Today, there are at least nine varieties of greens in supermarkets: not only spinach but collards, mustard, turnip, beet, Swiss chard (red and green), dandelion, kale (two varieties) and broccoli rabe.

Because many of these greens are new to me, I undertook a fascinating quest to determine how they should be cooked for the best result. I started by washing them and tasting the leaves raw. They are divided into two general categories, peppery and mildly sweet.

I boiled one bunch of each until the leaves were tender. The collards were very mild and needed a strong boost of flavor. In the South, collards are boiled for hours with very strong flavor additions such as ham hocks, chopped garlic, lots of onions, red and black pepper, hot pepper sauce, vinegar and salt. I suspect you could substitute any leafy green for collards and the result would taste just the same.

Swiss chard is the original form of the beet plant, grown for the leaves, rather than the root; it was domesticated in Babylonian times. It tastes very good with the simple addition of butter, salt, pepper and a little wine vinegar.

Dandelion greens, cooked in just enough water to prevent burning, retain a peppery or bitter taste and are nice served with a little soy sauce. Kale is part of the Cruciferae family, as are collards and cabbage. Trim away the tough stalks and cut the leaves into strips, then simmer, covered, in a little salted water for about 25 minutes. Add them to a cooked pasta--penne is nice--and serve with olive oil, garlic and grated Parmesan cheese.

MUSTARD GREEN SOUP

Collard, turnip or dandelion greens may be substituted for the mustard greens.

3/4 pound (about 6 cups) mustard greens

1/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

1 cup chopped onion

2 cups cooked, diced turnip

2 cups cooked navy beans

8 cups chicken or vegetable broth

Salt, pepper

Wash greens well. Trim tough stems. Chop and set aside.

Heat olive oil in soup kettle or pot. Add garlic and onion and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until garlic and onion are softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in turnip, beans, greens and broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer about 15 minutes. Serve hot.

4 servings. Each serving:

381 calories; 1689 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 4.62 grams fiber.