The Green Stuff: Fresh Pea Soup

The produce section of my local market, its aisles laden with bins of summer vegetables, provided the inspiration for a main-course summer soup. I could not resist picture-perfect fresh peas in their shells, leeks, tomatoes and cucumbers.

At home, I shelled the peas and simmered the pods in chicken broth for a few minutes to enhance the flavor of the broth. Then I sauteed chopped leeks and the peas in a little butter and seasoned them with tarragon. Next, I simmered the vegetables in the broth, pureed the mixture and enriched it with half and half. As a garnish, I pan-fried thin slivers of prosciutto and garnished each bowl of soup with the sauteed strips and a sprinkling of tarragon.

This delectable soup, which can be served warm or cold, was a perfect anchor for a light summer meal. A salad of tender green oak leaf lettuce, thinly sliced cucumbers and tomato wedges tossed in a white wine mustard vinaigrette and hot crusty French bread were easy accompaniments. Bowls of strawberries, blueberries and peach slices offered with cookies made a fine finale.

FRESH PEA SOUP WITH TARRAGON AND PROSCIUTTO

1 1/2 pounds fresh peas in their pods

4 1/2 cups chicken broth

1 1/2 tablespoons butter

2 cups chopped leeks

2 small boiling potatoes (about 1/2 pound), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons chopped tarragon plus 4 sprigs for garnis

Salt

Pepper

1 cup half and half

1 teaspoon olive oil

3 to 4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into 1/4x3-inch strips

4 sprigs tarragon plus 2 teaspoons chopped tarragon

Soup is best and has a more intense flavor when made with fresh peas, but a 10-ounce package of frozen tiny peas, thawed and drained, may be substituted. Omit the step in which pea pods are simmered in the broth.

Shell peas and set aside. Discard half of pea pods and place remaining pods in strainer and rinse under cold water. Drain.

Bring chicken broth to simmer in large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add rinsed pea pods and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Heat butter in medium pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add leeks and saute, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add potatoes, peas, 1 tablespoon tarragon, 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste and several grinds black pepper. Cook and stir 2 minutes more.

Strain chicken broth into pan with vegetables, pressing down on pea pods to release as much liquid as possible. Discard pods. Bring soup to simmer, then turn heat to low and cook, uncovered, until vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat.

Puree mixture in batches in food processor, blender or food mill. Return mixture to pan over low heat and stir in half and half. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed. (Note: Soup can be made ahead to this point. Cool, cover and refrigerate.)

To serve chilled, taste and add more salt if needed since cold dishes need more seasoning. If making ahead and serving warm, reheat soup, stirring, over medium heat.

Just before serving, heat olive oil in small heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add prosciutto strips and cook, stirring constantly, until crisp, 2 to 3 minutes.

Ladle soup into 4 shallow soup bowls. Garnish center of each bowl with prosciutto strips and 1 tarragon sprig. Sprinkle with remaining chopped chopped fresh tarragon.

4 servings. Each serving:

320 calories; 1,299 mg sodium; 46 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 27 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 4.07 grams fiber.