Seeing seaside La Rochelle

GETTING THERE

Nonstop service from LAX to Paris is available on Air France and Air Tahiti Nui; direct service (no change of planes) on US Airways; connecting service (change of planes) on American, United, Lufthansa, Delta, Continental, Northwest and Swiss. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $799.

Air Jet flies daily from Paris to La Rochelle; round-trip fares begin at $55.

You can also take the TGV express train from the Gare Montparnasse in Paris to La Rochelle, or hop the TGV from the station next to Charles de Gaulle Airport. First class costs $95 each way, second class $71. For schedules and reservations, contact Rail Europe, (888) 382-7245 or https://www.raileurope.com. The ornately monumental La Rochelle train station, a tourist attraction in itself, is within walking distance of the Old Town and the Old Port.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international access code), 33 (country code for France), 5 (regional area code) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY

Hôtel Residence de France, 43 Rue du Minage; 46-28-06-00, fax 46-28-06-03, https://www.chateauxhotels.com. This is top of the line in La Rochelle. Garden-front double rooms and suites start at $63.

Hôtel de la Monnaie, 3 Rue de la Monnaie; 46-50-65-65, fax 46-50-63-19, https://www.hotel-monnaie.com. A former 17th century mint, it is in Old Town; doubles start at $86.

In the Marais Poitevin, Hôtel Au Marais, 46-48 Quai Louis Tardy, Coulon; 49-35-90-43, fax 49-35-81-98, https://www.hotel-aumarais.com. Double rooms with river view are $56 to $70.

WHERE TO EAT

Restaurant Maryse et Richard Coutanceau, Plage de la Concurrence; 46-41-48-19, fax 46-41-99-45, e-mail [email protected]. The Coutanceau family rules in La Rochelle gastronomic circles. (The Web site https://www.coutanceauonline.com has pages for each of its four restaurants.) This restaurant, founded and run by patriarch Richard, offers refined traditional fare with a twist and a serene ocean view. Menu highlights include langoustines de la Cotinière cooked on coconut and lemon confit, as well as grilled turbot, sole and red mullet. Menus run from $40 to $75, with à la carte selections from $35 to $62.

Restaurant Les Flots, 1 Rue de la Chaîne; 46-41-32-51, fax 46-41-90-80, e-mail [email protected]. This restaurant is run by Richard’s son Grégory at the foot of the Tour de la Chaîne. More experimental than the senior chef’s place, Les Flots specializes in spider crab and a thick bass steak. Menus run from $30 to $52 and à la carte dishes from $34 to $55.

Chez André, Grande Brasserie de Poissons, 5 Rue St. Jean; 46-41-28-24, e-mail [email protected]. This casual seafood restaurant is a labyrinthine maze of dining rooms, each with distinct marine décor. The Plateau Andreyale, $28, includes shucked oysters, carpet shell clams, whelks and other fresh selections.

TO LEARN MORE

French Government Tourist Office, 9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 715, Beverly Hills, CA 90212-2967; (410) 286-8310 (France-on-Call hotline), https://www.franceguide.com.

Office de Tourisme de La Rochelle, Place de la Petite Sirène, 46-41-14-68, fax 46-41-99-85, https://www.larochelle-tourisme.com. Well organized and congenial. Guided walking tours in French, English and other languages depart every morning at 10:30.